Post 
by: Paul Curran
The Lemon Tetra, the Leopard Corydoras and the Orange Chromide are three freshwater fish suitable for your tank. Find out about their behavior, what they look like, water conditions, how to feed them and how to breed them.
Lemon Tetra - Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis (Family: Characidae)
Behavior:A very popular fish, well suited to a community tank, it is best to have say up to six of them in a small shoal. It is peaceful, active (good swimmer) and a sturdy fish.
Water and Tank Conditions:You need plenty of swimming space for this tetra and a tank temperature between 22 and 26 degrees centigrade.
Features and Colors:Seldom get to be more than 5 cms. Difficult to see the differences between male and female. The female is generally the bigger of the two but you cannot rely on this. As its name suggests it has a silvery yellow tint and a noticeable feature is its eye that is red in the upper part and yellow in the lower part.
Feeding:Not a fussy eater but give it a live meal now and again to maintain optimum health.
Breeding Conditions:t is very important to select a compatible pair for mating and it is advisable to condition the female before breeding. The breeding tank itself should be thickly planted and have water with a temperature of 26 degrees centigrade, a depth of about 15 cms and no gravel on the bottom.
The parents are cannibals so a lot of eggs will get eaten! So try to remove the fish after spawning has taken place. Low light conditions are recommended for incubating the eggs. Feed the hatched fry on the usual infusoria etc.
Leopard Corydoras - Corydoras julii (Family: Callichthyidae)
Behavior:They are active fish and well suited to a community aquarium. They are very good scavengers and will live a long time.
Water and Tank Conditions:The usual tropical tank temperatures range will be fine though it will survive in a wider range than normal.You will need to ensure there are plenty of hiding places for it.
Features and Colors:The head and top half of the body are scattered with black spots. These tend to merge forming horizontal lines along the flanks. The caudal fin also has spots and the dorsal fin might have a large spot at the top.
The overall body color is a white gray mixture. There are a few other species of the Corydoras genus you might be interested in.
The Corydoras nattereri that goes up to 6cms, the Corydoras arcuatus, that reaches 5 cms, and the Corudoras aenus growing up to 9 cms. The main colors are white-mauve, silver-brown-blue and bronze-green respectively.
Feeding:A large variety of food can be given as they are not particular.
Breeding Conditions:The male's pelvic fins are longer and more pointed than the female and it is also a bit smaller. Not easy to breed in the aquarium. It is suggested that three or four males should be partnered with the one female.
Eggs will be laid in the breeding tank on slate or flat stone and are in danger of being eaten by the fish so beware. Fry will hatch in three or four days and are easy to bring up.
Orange Chromide - Etroplus maculatus (Family: Cichlidae)
Behavior:This is a small member of the Cichlidae family (7.5 cms) and as it is one of the more peaceful ones it is suitable for your community tank. Best in a small shoal with its own kind as it is a bit shy. Also known as the Orange cichlid.
Water and Tank Conditions:A tank that is well planted is needed and a temperature range of 22 to 24 degrees centigrade is adequate.
Features and Colors:It is also known as the orange cichlid due to the orange color of its belly and throat. It's back is olive colored and sides are a light yellow. Its fins are also yellow apart from the ventral fins that are black.
The anal fins are also edged black. Along the mid-line of the body are several large spots. And each scale also has a spot, a red one.
Feeding:Can be fussy at times and refuse to eat dry food or any type of food on occasions.
Breeding Conditions:Not that easy to breed. Increase the breeding tank temperature by two degrees. The pair to be bred need to be separated and conditioned prior to placing them in a thickly planted breeding tank. Try something like a plant pot turned on its side for the fish to spawn in as well as the plants.
Eggs, dark in color, will be attached to the underside of leaves or the pot by threads. It is advised to leave the fish in the breeding tank for about two weeks after spawning takes place even thought the fry will have hatched after several days.
Three freshwater fish for tank conditions have now been described and give you more options when deciding what other fish you can add to your community tank. When you do add more make sure you have enough capacity for them.
About The Author
Paul Curran is webmaster at Fresh-Water-Aquariums-Guide.com and provides a care information system for fresh water aquariums. Get your FREE E-Course on how to set up and maintain a beautiful aquarium, have the healthiest, happiest fish around AND learn about more freshwater fish in your tank at http://www.fresh-water-aquariums-guide.com/freshwater-fish-for-tank/
Fishing for Salmon
by: Milos Pesic
Are you planning to go fishing for salmon? If you are and you are one of the beginners or first-timers, there are basic things you need to know to get you started and to help you enjoy this enjoyable outdoor activity.
First off, there are several species of salmon that you should know about before you go fishing for salmon trips. There are Atlantic and Pacific salmons. Atlantic species are from the Atlantic Ocean, as the name implies. Also, you can find a wide variety of salmon in the various lakes that are in the eastern North America areas. They are the kind of salmon that don’t immigrate as they prefer fresh water than salt water.
The most popular of all salmons are the Chinook or king salmon or spring salmon, black mouth, however you call them, as they are the biggest among the salmon species, weighing between 25 to 65 pounds, or even more. They are found from southern California coast to the Bering Strait. Alaska has earned its fame in fishing for salmon, since it is where the heaviest ever recorded king salmon, weighing over 96 pounds. Chinook salmon is the state fish of Alaska.
Other types of salmon include the red salmon or sockeye salmon, pink salmon, silver or Coho salmon, chum salmon, and the Atlantic salmon, which are left run wild in the on the Atlantic coast only. Each of the pacific salmon species have different life cycle and each returns to their fresh water spawning grounds at different times. When salmon returns to the rivers where they’re from, they are collectively called run that is, in turn, named after the river. So, if you hear the word run or runs, you know what it means.
Due to the fact that salmon always come back to where they hatched, you know when the ideal times are to go fishing for salmon or mostly called fishing season and you know there will always be salmon to catch. This is why many fishermen became fascinated with fishing, whether as hobby, sport or pastime.
Fishing for salmon requires bait. There are various types of baits that you cause in fishing for salmon. There are plugs, worms, lures, and flies in which you can use for fresh water salmon; for salt water, you can go for flies, streamers, crustaceans, and lures.
Fly fishing for salmon will require you to have 12-16 ft. graphite or fiberglass rod, fly reel and line. For bait fishing, you will need a 10 ft. spinning rod and bait caster reel with up to 20 lb. test line. But if you are into fishing for king or Chinook salmon, you will need a boat or a trolling rod. And because Chinook are known to be the biggest and heaviest of its kind, you will 20-40 pound or more test line. Who knows, your simple fishing for salmon trip could land you to catch king salmon?
About The Author
Milos Pesic is an avid fisherman and owner of popular and comprehensive Salmon Fishing web site. For more articles and resources on Salmon Fishing related topics, Salmon Fishing equipment, tips and trips, visit his site at:
=>http://salmon-fishing.need-to-know.net/
Indoor Ponds Keep Plants and Fish Healthy During Winter Months
by: Rob Bernabe
If you’ve never seen an indoor fish pond or are of the mind that the only place for a fishpond is outdoors, it’s time to readjust your thinking. Many people love the idea of having a goldfish or Koi pond in their lawn and garden area but find the reality isn’t always as wonderful as the fantasy.
Every winter runs the risk of losing the plant and fish life in your pond with the first freeze. As a result, more and more people are coming up with a method for bringing the outdoors, in and forming your very own pond indoors is a beautiful alternative to a tired old aquarium. While an indoor pond doesn’t have to be beautiful in order to be functional, you can choose to make it a focal point and conversation piece quite easily.
A fairly simple and inexpensive way to craft an indoor pond this winter season is by using interlocking landscaping blocks to form a basic outline, and place a pre molded plastic pond liner (to avoid leaks), and other landscaping items such as rocks, plants, and soil in order to fill in the gaps. Others have even used a plastic kiddie pool for the fish and disguised the pool by hiding it with bricks or landscaping rocks.
The main purpose of indoor ponds is to protect your fish and plant life from the extreme winter weather conditions. It is quite easy to move the fish and plants from one pond to another. Be sure to keep the indoor pond regulated for temperature and water freshness by using proper equipment. Taking these precautions should keep your Koi fish and your plants healthy throughout the harsher winter months.
About The Author
Rob Bernabe invites you to http://www.artificialgardens.com, your water gardening center. Here we provide tips on water fountain and waterfall ideas. For additional information on related Koi ponds, check out http://www.artificialgardens.com/Building-Koi-Ponds-Can-Create-A-Beautiful-Relaxing-Atmosphere.html on benefits of building Koi ponds.
Koi Colors
by: David Maguire
The beauty of Nishikigoi, or koi fish, is that they come in a variety of colors and diverse patterns that never cease to amaze its audience. With a name that literally means brocaded or decorated carps, they continue to captivate many people with their unending assortment of colors and varieties. Koi colors vary depending on their classification, although hobbyists continue to develop different types and classifications for these magnificent aquatic creatures.
To be able to easily identify the many types of this fish, familiarity with koi colors is important. For example, Bekko can be easily recognized since its main characteristic is a single colored koi with black stone patterns (or sumi) on their body; Shiro Bekko is white-skinned, Aka Bekko is red-skinned, and Ki Bekko (which is the rarely seen) has a striking bright lemon yellow color.
Many features are also included to their already beautiful colors. In the case of Hikarimono (also known as Ogon koi), where the fish are single-colored, they have metallic scales that adds luster to their features. The name Hikarimono is a derivative of the Japanese word "hikari" meaning metallic, and the word "mono" that refers to its characteristic of being single-colored. These days, this variety is commonly being crossbred with GinRin (which means silver "Gin", and gold "Rin") to create an effect for scales that are even shinier than the common metallic koi fish.
In some cases, it's the pattern of these colors that make up the name of the koi variations. Example of this is the Shusui, which is a Japanese name that means "Autumn Water". Its name was given because of the color blue along its lateral line with red colorations on the underside of the body that has an effect of falling leaves during the autumn season. Mirror scales that are seen from the back of the head to the tail can almost be seen as flowing water above their red color. Many of these names are pretty poetic like in the case of a Shusui variety, Hana Shusui ("Hana" in Japan means "flower") where the red coloration has a wavy pattern that creates a flowery effect.
However, there is one variety of koi fish that seem to stand out because of an odd behavior of changing color patterns. Kumonryu is a scaled Doitsu koi with markings around its body. Often seen as black with white markings in the winter and white with black markings during spring and summer, to this date no one can tell what changes its color. Some theories that have been made are changes made by temperature or PH levels of water. This type of koi is developed by breeding a Shusui with a Matsukawa Bakke.
These fascinating creatures continue to spark our interest and curiosity with their ever changing characteristics. It doesn't take much to take care of these fish. They are hardy and omnivorous; their gentle and friendly nature allows them to co-exist harmoniously. For many koi enthusiasts, the pleasure of keeping and caring for koi fish is often found in the serenity these amazing creatures bring to their environment.
About The Author
Information about the different varities of koi, koi colors, and patterns. For more information, visit us at http://www.koicolors.net
Koi Spawning and Breeding made Easy
by: Clarence Chan
It brings joy to any Koi owner when they are breeding their own Koi fish. In addition, it also saves you money from having to purchase more Koi. But efficient spawning and breeding takes skill and experience. Here are some guidance.
Koi mostly breed during the Spring and Summer seasons, especially when there is a full moon (most often, spawning and breeding come about at night) and the water temperature is the most constant. The necessary thing to do would be to pick out your mating pair.
Your mating pair must not be too young or too old or they give off inferior eggs and fries. The age range of the mating pair must be between 3 to 6 years old. Apparently, you would pick the pair that look the most flourishing and most wonderful.
If you are just starting out, try to take a pair of the same variety. This makes the whole process not difficult.
Approximately 3 to 4 weeks before mating season, set apart the mating pair into an alternative tank. You may possibly also decide on 2 males and 1 female if you wish. Make sure your mating tank is well aerated and you feed them amply.
The female will begin to grow round as she carries her eggs in her body. She will emit a mating odor that will cause the male to try to spawn her. He does this by pushing her body against the side of the tank. As soon as she releases her eggs, the male will fertilize them with sperm.
The eggs are very sticky and will stick to anything at all. So it's practical to have spawning ropes to catch the eggs. As soon as they are fertilized, remove the spawning ropes with the eggs or the adult pair would try to eat the eggs. Also, set apart the mating pair from each other for a day or two before bringing them back into your pond.
When the eggs hatch you will have hundreds of Koi fries.
Subsequently at least 4 weeks, you need to cull your fries to control their population. There are various ways of removing fries.
Alternative way is to give them away. To start with, check with your local pet store. Many pet stores have programs in which they will receive rejected animals and give them pleasant homes. Several may even pay a certain amount for each fish since they market them, but do not count of this. Local Zoos may also have programs.
If you know of a local Koi society, you may let them know that you have unnecessary fries. Instead, you can find a message board or group online and post messages there. You may even begin another person on a Koi keeping hobby.
About The Author
Your Quick and Easy Solution on How to Keep Koi Perfectly is found at http://keepkoi.com
3 Great Fish For Your Tropical Aquarium
by: Paul Curran
Lamp Eye, Madagascar Rainbow Fish and the Medaka are three fish suitable for your tropical aquarium. Find out about their behavior, what they look like, water conditions, how to feed them and how to breed them
Lamp Eye - Aplocheilichthys macrophthalmus (Family: Cyprinodontidae)
As this fish rarely grows to more than 3 cms you need to assess your community aquarium to see if there are any of the others that lean towards the aggressive and might harm them. For their size these fishes eyes are bigger than you might expect and show as a greenish gold in low light; hence the common names, Lamp or Lantern eye.
As an active fish with a good leap, you must have a cover on the tank to stop them jumping out and the use of floating plants will help. For these fish to enjoy their stay, matured aquarium water is required at a temperature of between twenty three and twenty six degrees Celcius.
Shape wise, the fish has a long body, thinner at the front with a mouth that points upwards slightly. It has attractive fins on a gray green body which may have a dark line along the back with a spotted shiny thin band along the flank. The male's ventral and dorsal fins are more pointed than the female.
Breeding wise, eggs are either laid individually or in bunches that end up amongst the plants. Once laid it is best practice to remove the parents. The eggs will hatch in about a week and a half and you will have to be very careful with the fry as they are a bit delicate.
Madagascar Rainbow Fish - Bedotia geayi (Family: Atherinidae)
Keeping this fish in a shoal (not large) with water between 25 and 18 degrees centigrade will see them at their best in your community tank. It is an active swimmer and sturdy little fish that grows up to about 8 cms and likes to dwell in the top part of the aquarium. Although it has only come onto the scene a relatively short time ago this fish has become a favorite with aquarium lovers.
Body wise, it has a somewhat unique feature in that it has two dorsal fins, a short one and a long one. Color wise, the main color is olive green and there is a stripe along the sides of the fish from eye to tail. It is easy to feed as it it accepts most offerings so ideally give it a varied diet.
Breeding is easy for this species so you need to have thickly planted tank with hard water at a temperature of at least 26 degrees centigrade. Eggs laid will adhere to plants and the eggs themselves are quite big but you will have to wait a few days for completion as only a few eggs are laid per day. Bear in mind that due to the extended spawning period, fry will hatch and be at various stages of their development.
Medaka - Oryzias latipes (Family: Oryziatidae)
This fish is ideal for your tropical aquarium. It grows to about 5 cms, will consume most foods and can survive in a wide range of temperatures, although 20 to 24 degrees centigrade is the best for it. There are three other species of Oryzias that you may also come across under the name medaka but the Oryzias latipes is the main one.
With this fish there are no specific patterns on its mainly gold color. Its head is slimmer than you would normally expect and its body lengthier than usual. It is interesting to know that before breeding took place the original color was; well there wasn't one. It was transparent!
Males are somewhat smaller than females and have bigger fins. Breeding is relatively easy and the tank should be at the same temperature as the main tank, have floating plants and be thickly planted underwater with fine leaved plants. Until they have been fertilized, the eggs will stay attached to the end of the female.
It is best practice to take out all the plants with attached eggs from the tank to another one and after about two weeks the fry will emerge. Remove and feed on infusoria then fine dry food, then micro worms and other food for the more grown up fish.
So there you have it, three more excellent fish for your tropical aquarium collection.
About The Author
Paul Curran is webmaster at Fresh-Water-Aquariums-Guide.com and provides a care information system for fresh water aquariums at http://www.fresh-water-aquariums-guide.com/fsa-sales.html
The author invites you to visit:
http://Fresh-Water-Aquariums-Guide.com
The Secrets To Successful Koi Carp Fish Care
by: Michael C. Harris
Loved all over the world for their vibrant colors and long living, Koi carp fish are absolutely wonderful additions to an outdoor pond. They are exceptionally popular and populate millions of outdoor ponds. While today, most live to be around thirty years of age, Koi have been known to live well beyond two hundred years old, with the oldest ever having lived to be two hundred and twenty-six years of age. No doubt, Koi care can be an integral factor in the longevity of Koi fish.
Koi carp fish belong to the same species of fish as the common carp, with the Koi being considered the most domesticated. The Japanese are credited as the first breeders of the marvelous Koi fish and their efforts date to the 1820's. Koi are known for their variety of colors and attractive patterns which includes lively colors such as blue, green, red, orange, yellow, and silver. Of course, they can also be found in basic colors such as black and white. Their color is directly affected by their environment and the care that they receive. Proper Koi care requires a great deal of consistency and diligence.
Koi carp fish may behave differently in smaller versus larger ponds. This is something to be considered when planning and preparing for Koi care. Koi usually school when they are in smaller ponds, but will separate into smaller units when they are in a larger pond. Additionally, Koi are known to be very social with a number of other fish breeds, except in situations with much smaller fish that can fit into their mouths and be eaten. Remember, Koi are opportunistic feeders. Those that are planning to raise them should consider their social activity when making preparation for their pond.
Koi carp fish are best kept in ponds that are at least five hundred gallons, as they generally become large fish as they grow and age. As fish get bigger, they may outgrow your designated space. If you see that your Koi has the potential to exceed the allotted space, then you may need to designate a larger space, or trade them out for smaller fish. Take care to give the larger fish to someone that also has a passion for Koi fish. If you are into Koi, then you should make every effort to follow proper Koi treatment and care. Your close attention to your Koi can make your experience of Koi keeping very gratifying. Your Koi can be healthy with proper care, but that will depend heavily on the space designated for them, the water quality and temperature. Koi carp fish are not cheap fish and it can become very costly if you struggle with keeping them and have to replace them. Always remember that Koi fish are naturally used to cold water; thus, when keeping Koi, you should ensure that their environment is spacious and kept in the temperature range of 61 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
When it comes to Koi care, there are few major issues that can arise if owners don't administer the proper Koi treatment to ensure their Koi fish are well cared for. Koi can remain in an outdoor pond during the winter because they are cold-water fish. They actually do very well in the colder temperatures; however, for proper Koi keeping, Koi carp fish should be kept in an outdoor pond that is more than three feet deep. During the winter season, Koi go into a hibernation phase and experience a dramatic decrease in digestive functioning. At this time they will not be able to properly digest food. If you continue to provide food, Koi can get sick because the food is not digested and will spoil in their stomachs. Therefore, when taking care of feeding your Koi, make sure that all caregivers know not to feed the fish when it is fifty degrees Fahrenheit or below.
Koi carp fish add a liveliness and brilliance to outdoor ponds that people find both enjoyable and relaxing. The presence of Koi in an outside pond can make sure of a pleasant garden experience. Owners know and can appreciate how wonderful it is to have Koi carp fish as a part of their lives.
About The Author
Michael C. Harris specializes in Koi carp fish care. His successful Koi care secrets e-Book “Koi Fish School”, is an inspiring guide of easy follow techniques for every Koi enthusiast. Visit http://www.koifishschool.com/learn.html today. FREE 10 day mini course at http://www.koifishschool.com
Hand Feeding your Koi
by: Brett Fogle
One of the most rewarding and entertaining things about having a Koi pond is when your fish finally start eating out of your hand. There is no better way to learn each fishes' personality and temperament than to have them nuzzle your fingers when they are hungry.
The key to training your Koi to eat from your hand is patience and conditioning. Like any wild animal Koi have a natural distrust for anything that they think can hurt them, and you're plenty big enough to do that as far as they are concerned.
If your goal is hand feeding then you need to start training from the very first time that you feed a new fish. Of course, it's not too late to start training your existing fish, but it's easier if you start out that way.
If you have been feeding your fish by simply broadcasting the food on top of the water then stop doing that immediately. Instead, bring your feed bag next to the pond and kneel down. Then, place a few pellets in your hand, submerge your hand, and let the pellets slowly fall out.
Don't worry if your fish seem to not be paying attention. They know that your hand is in the water and they know that pellets just appeared out of nowhere.
Eventually one or two will swim up and eat. When that happens, the rest of them will follow. Continue slowly dropping pellets from your hand until you have fed your normal amount. Repeat that process for about a week.
The following week, set up as you did last week, but this time submerge your hand and hold the pellets in your slightly cupped palm. Hold your hand steady and don't make any movements. Eventually at least one fish should come over and eat from your hand. It is essential that you do not make any quick movements while this is happening. Remove your empty hand and repeat the process. If the fish will not approach your hand to feed, then do not feed them that day. They won't starve to death, believe me, and they will be a little bit more likely to eat form your hand the next time that you offer them food.
Once you have them to the point that they will eat form your palm, it is time to teach them to take the food directly from your finger tips. Simply grasp a pellet, submerge your hand, and wait until the boldest fish approaches. Once he eats the others will follow. If they don't you know what do to. Just feed the ones that will eat from your hand and let the others miss a meal. Hunger is a great motivator for Koi.
Once you have your Koi eating out of your hands you can alternate between normal feeding and hand feeding for those times when you're in a rush and just can't sit down and enjoy your fish.
To read the full article, click here:
https://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Newsletters/September2004/Hand-feeding-koi.shtml
About The Author
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at www.macarthurwatergardens.com.
brett@macarthurwatergardens.com
Maintaining Oxygen Levels in Fish and KOI Ponds
by: Brett Fogle
Severe environmental stressors are the most frequent causes of sudden fish death in garden ponds or other fish habitats, and the lack of oxygen in the water is the number 1 stressor of all.
Two major factors contributing to fish-pond oxygen loss concern blooming algae. During daylight hours, algae make oxygen; during the night,however, the plants take oxygen. If algae are profusely blooming, the plants deplete all the pond’s oxygen during the night, which in turn, causes fish inhabiting the pond to die.
Another way that algae trigger oxygen loss is by dying suddenly. Algae-bloom death occurs naturally or from chemical treatment of an algaecide. When algae die suddenly – from either cause – the oxygen becomes quickly depleted because the algae no longer are alive and making it.
Then, when dead algae begin to decompose, the decaying process even further depletes oxygen. Fish have been observed gulping for oxygen at the water’s surface in sixty minutes or less from the onset of sudden algae death.
In ponds stocked liberally with many fish, often the oxygen level is just adequate enough to sustain them. If any further claim on the existing oxygen is made, this delicate environmental balance will be upset. When no or inadequate aeration is provided, along with rising warm-weather water temperatures, the conditions for fish survival become critical.
As water warms, its oxygen-retaining capacity decreases. Consequently, small fountains, waterfalls, or other water-aerating devices are incapable of providing adequate oxygen for fish. Additional oxygen should be introduced through brisk aeration when fighting algae, most importantly when water temperatures surpass eighty degrees Fahrenheit.
Testing devices are the only sure method to accurately read oxygen levels. Because these devices are not usually on hand for the average person maintaining a water garden or fish pond, the easiest way to ensure sufficient oxygen levels is to provide generous and continual aeration. Pumps and diffusers that “bubble” air into the water or large waterfalls, fountains, and other “splashing” water devices are common ways to get sufficient oxygen into the pond. When the weather is warm, or if an algae problem exists, it is imperative that supplemental aeration be provided constantly, throughout the day and night.
One other algae-caused loss of fish has gained attention and is being studied in areas around the world. These fish-killing algal varieties contain potent toxins that trigger sudden fish death. If a pond hosts these particularly virulent algae, devastating fish loss can result, seemingly more so when a quick die-off of algal bloom occurs. The blooms discharge their toxins concurrently, and some or all fish in the pond are adversely affected or killed. Fortunately, since pond owners are unable to identify these algae, this danger is rare.
Keep your oxygen levels under control at all times and you will greatly increase your the lifespan of your fish.
To read the full article, click here:
http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Newsletters/July2004/Oxygen-Depletion.shtml
About The Author
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at www.macarthurwatergardens.com.
brett@macarthurwatergardens.com
What to feed your fish during colder winter months
by: Brett Fogle
With air and water temperatures dropping in most parts of the country, now is the time to greatly reduce the amount of food you are feeding your fish.
When your water temperature starts falling below 65 degrees, you should consider switching your fish food to a more digestible wheat germ food. At lower temperatures, the good bacteria in your fish's digestive tract become less active, and have harder time digesting their normal high-protein diet.
In colder water temperatures, below say 50 - 55 degrees, then you should stop feeding your fish altogether. Even though they may eat, and seem hungry, you can actually harm them by feeding them their regular diet.
In some cases, undigested food can cause health problems in fish and trouble with their digestive tract. So don't feel bad that they are going hungry! Pond fish and KOI can be like little underwater pigs with fins - they will continue to eat because they dont know any better...
About The Author
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at www.macarthurwatergardens.com.
Can Your Goldfish Recognise You?
by: Ong Hui Woo
A lot of people misconstrue the fish’s uncontrolled eating to be a sign of lack of intelligence. Nothing could be further from truth! Goldfish can actually recognize their owner and have even demonstrated their learned ability to beg for food when the owner come near the aquarium. They may also exhibit recognition by coming close to the glass wall or circle around the surface of the water. They will also show fear of strangers by hiding.
Goldfish have also been noticed to show social behavior. A new fish in the tank may be chased or nipped at. After a while though, fishes might show schooling behavior. They also exhibit similar feeding habits when they have been living together for some time.
Getting close
Goldfish also seem to stop treating humans as threats once they have been amidst them for some time. So much so that you can actually feed them from your hand! Try this trick with soaked pellets. First set a time of the day. Everyday at the same time do this the same way for at least a month.
Hold the food above the water surface when you remove the cover. The fish will begin to rise occassionally ; then release the food only when it does so. Don’t touch the surface of the water yet, you will scare the fish. As the fish get used to this daily ritual, they will rise higher and higer until they begin to hit the surface and gasp. Now try to drop the pellets into their gasping mouths. Next, start lowering your hand little by little. Do this everyday till you reach the surface of the water and then slowly take it a little under the surface and Voila! You have the fish eating out of your hand!
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